The Best Wave of My Life and the Lesson I Learned

It was an average day with plenty of sunshine and we had been out for an hour or so. There were about twenty of us competing for waves and we had a right hand break that if you went through a re-form of the wave the length of you wave could be about 50 to 80 meters.

I caught a wave and right away dropped a steep face into a tube that had me placed about six to eight feet inside of the break. I traveled in there for about thirty to forty feet and then I came out of the tube, took my board to the lip and did a re- entry and re positioned and went into another tube that went a further twenty feet or so. I came out of that tube and quickly entered another before moving onto the reform and I rode the wave all the way to the shallow water where I stepped off into shallow water.

I quickly went out and shared my wave with my elder brother and it was dismissed as he shared three or so waves he had ridden and so I thought that all I had to show for myself was a fond memory. Getting three tubes in one wave is pretty rare and getting out of them all is even rarer.

Years later I was walking down to the same beach with my elder brother and one of the town’s best surfers. My brother was having a go at me and this guy spoke up. He told my brother in all his time on the beach he had not often seen a better wave ridden then the wave he saw me ride one day. I asked him if it was the one with three tubes and he shook his head and agreed that it was.

The lesson I learned that day was no matter what you do in life there is always a witness. God is always our witness. I have also learned to have fond memories of events I have had in my life. I will always remember that wave, I was never a great surfer but I did enjoy myself and at one time I was quite slim.

Just remember guys. Someone is always watching you even when you’re alone.